Need for Speed Heat

Many people say that the Koenigsegg Regera is best for jumps and radars, but to be honest, it is too clumsy and is much better suited for the Pagani Huayra, but unlike the Regera, it initially does not have the best spare parts when purchasing and you will have to buy Absolute or Absolute+ , and it costs more. But for me personally, it saved a lot of nerves. For drifting, I used a BMW M4 2018 Performance, with the wheel camber set to maximum and spare parts specifically for drifting.

To be honest, it’s depressing that in all the tips they only talk about the “best” cars and settings, and no one goes deeper into understanding what, why and why. but I would like to minimize this headache from passing all the tests (and this is definitely the worst thing you will have to experience on the way to platinum, and it’s not about the difficulty as such - there really isn’t any here). the fact is that in certain tests, it is best to use different settings, and sometimes even different machines. Of course, you can pass all the tests on almost the same machine - but understanding why in certain tests, even within the same category, it is worth using a different machine/setup will save you time and nerves.

drift

Actually, here for the first time I realized that not everything is so simple. Following the advice, I took the BMW m3 evolution ll and turned the settings to maximum drift in order to wiggle as much as possible and move forward as little as possible, like in some kind of classic snake. but on certain routes (especially those fenced with reinforced concrete like on highways), there is simply not enough space for such wobbles. After an hour of torment on the conventional “cylinder stage” or “snakes in the city,” I gave up and still went to experiment. because there’s not a lot of money here, I didn’t want to get burned with buying new cars - I tried it on a free (they give for completing drift side quests) Nissan 350Z Z33 LE'03, which for some reason no one recommends, but at the same time I calmly passed on it all trials.

Regarding the general settings for drifting, this is the max. steering sensitivity and wheel camber + min. downforce + double turbocharging (which I used always and everywhere on any cars and tests). The green brakes are stock, we don't need good ones here. gearbox gear 6 (in general, the gearbox is a rather delicate thing, and in any car/reconfiguration/situation, choose the last one “after the fact”, because the stats always change.).

So, with regards to tracks where wobbling like a snake to the maximum will not work due to lack of space for maneuver, you need to drift “honestly” and in normal forward motion, making a maximum arc “like in the movies.” and this is where the settings get quite interesting. I’ll say right away that some settings may differ for other machines (but since this one is free, I don’t see a problem).

tires: for drag
differential: for displays
suspension: and here it is IMPORTANT “suspension for the track” , and not “suspension for the track”. it is easy to determine because it is only “about” quality, there is no “super” quality.

As a result, the car stays well sideways when drifting at speed, which will help us on similar tracks where it’s not possible to “walk sideways”

but most of the tests are really done in a lazy way with maximum wagging of the butt and minimal forward movement, like in a snake. here you can feel free to go into maximum drift according to the settings: tires, suspension and differential are all “for show”. but in the case when the track is off-road, or the track allows (and quite often) to go from the side of the road to the ground, then of course it is better to use the “speedcross” version.

radars/springboards

Regarding settings, in general, we need general concepts with which we are already more familiar. for example, it is already clear where we use the trio “for the track”, and where we use the trio “for the rally”. the only thing that is added here are drag tires, which increase speed but decrease handling, which makes it quite convenient to adapt if something happens without changing the car.

but you will still need to change the car. despite the fact that for most tests the Pagani Huayra is a good option because... Despite the excellent speed indicators, it is also very good in handling. BUT, unfortunately, it is not the most stable and flexible, plus in some places even better handling would not hurt. on a conditional radar in Fort Callahan, for example, where an unpleasant turn becomes even more unpleasant due to the “bumps” on our way, causing our beast to lose the speed we need. Here, probably the best alternative helps in the form of the Porsche 911 Carrera RSR (this is generally an excellent car for the first and main purchase because the price is reasonable, and if you pump it up it will be relevant in all races). and even in the case of reconfiguration in rallies for some off-road situations. But still, for some of these test places you will need full off-road care (for example, a “date with a saw”). here you will need a third car - an SUV. I didn’t experiment too much here, and took the first inexpensive LAND ROVER Range Rover Sport SVR’15 that came across, but if you have others lying around, I think they will do too.

in general something like this. This panel is probably a little confusing, but in the future, when for some tests the best option is not to go all the way to victory, but still try to “change your shoes” - then this will definitely save you time and nerves.